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Tree climbing is an exciting way to stay fit and active. High above the ground, maybe in mid-air, your whole perspective changes. If you know what gear you need, how to protect and not damage trees, if you know how to climb them safely, imagine the heights you could reach. The peace you may find. And you don’t have to be an athlete to do it!

Climbing trees was such a favorite of mine when I was really young. What is it about not touching the ground that’s so exciting? The higher I went, the better the climb. Of course, even at that young age, I was very aware that I was taking my life into my own hands. How wonderful it is now that I’m able to climb with ropes. How amazing it is to know that I can safely climb the tallest tree without risking my life.

Tree climbing means ascending a tree and moving around up in the canopy. Many people aren’t even aware that it’s an actual sport. But then, it’s only been recognized as one in the last 20 years. Your bare requirements are a rope, a harness and a helmet. That’s it. And you don’t have to worry if you aren’t athletically fit. If you can skip or hop, you can tree climb. Even a minimally fit person can do it. And it’s such fun!

There are some really good advantages to tree climbing. It’s a great way to exercise. You’ll probably discover muscle groups you’ve never noticed before. If you’ve got nice trees in your area and a good number of them, your scenery will keep changing. That’ll add some excitement to the workout. No boredom there. High above the ground, maybe in mid-air, your whole perspective changes. Surely, at birds-eye view, the world is a different place. Who knows what you may realize about your life just by climbing a tree. And except for your initial investment in gear, there really isn’t much else to spend your money on. You don’t have to spend extra money to use a climbing structure. Trees are all around us, almost anywhere, at any time of the year.

Because you’ll be directly working with a large living thing, certain rules, or safety measures, must be followed to respect that life, and to honor the sport. The most important rules involve yourself. Be “on rope” every step of the way. That is, stay connected to your rope. Never forget the fall. And don’t just rely on yourself to learn how to do it. Get training from a qualified instructor. Wear the right gear and have the right equipmenthowever basic it may be. Don’t climb trees with branches near power lines. Just don’t risk it. Electrocution is a tragic sign of complete disregard for one’s safety. It is entirely avoidable.

Protecting the tree and its natural surroundings require their own safety measures. When you decide to climb a tree, you must inspect it thoroughly for any signs of danger or weakness before you climb. If you notice that something seems wrong, move on. If it’s a go, on the other hand, you may want to use cambium savers. They protect trees with thin bark from rope friction. This will depend upon the tree you choose. And, please, don’t willingly injure a tree, especially by using leg spikes or any other implement that you know must damage the tree in order to be used (such as a gaff). You don’t want to go around leaving injured trees in your wake. Honor the sport, respect the tree.

There may be times that you’ll need to trim some branches just a bit. Use caution, especially with dead branches. Make sure that all climbers are standing clear. Falling branches should drop unhindered all the way to the ground. Maybe you could use those trimmed branches as a landfill in adjacent areas.

Be watchful of living things in old growth trees. Special plant communities may be found anywhere on or near the tree. Do not disturb them. Nesting animals and their actual nests must be left alone. Be attentive of ground cover beneath and around trees. Take care not to damage what may be delicate or rare plants.

When it’s time to ascend, you’ll have some choices. If you want to be a free climber and not just a tree climber (ha!), the rope will be attached to you but only as a safety measure in case you fall. You’ll get no help from it. As a free solo climber, ropes are used not at all. I repeat: Not at all. Your life is literally in your own hands. But you’ve only just decided to become a tree climber so you won’t go there. Your focus is on tree climbing with ropes.

There are three basic techniques for tree climbing with ropes. There is the single rope technique (SRT), the double rope technique (DRT) and the lead climbing technique. In SRT, a throw line is used to reach a high branch. The climbing rope is then hauled over that branch and secured in place. You then ascend the climbing rope. With DRT, a high branch is attained using SRT. Then both ends of the climbing rope are attached to the climber with a sequence of climbing knots throughout (makes climbing much easier). A tug in either direction will move the climber. Using a modified Blake’s hitch for the main knot, the climber only has to let go of the rope to stop in place. Very cool. The lead climbing technique involves a lead climber who ascends the tree as a free climber. Along the way, protection points are set up as slings banded around the tree’s limbs. At the top, the lead climber can set up a belay (top rope) for other climbers to ascend. If not, the lead climber simply rappels down.

Tree climbing is an exciting way to stay fit and active. It’s also quite peaceful and, somehow, rejuvenating once you’re up in the canopy. If you know what gear you need, how to protect and not damage trees, if you know how to climb them safelyPsychology Articles, imagine the heights you could reach. The peace you may find. Trees are wondrous and life-giving. Enjoy them and be careful up there!

Movement effects are a great way to improve the impact of your photography. You may think it is just a simple matter of playing with shutter speed, but there is a little more to it than that.

In photography, the use of shutter speeds to control moving subjects may seem self-explanatory. But beginners be warned: there is more to this important skill than meets the eye.

The main principles of shutter speed and movement are easy to visualise. Your shutter is open for a certain period of time, and any movement that occurs during that time will be captured in the exposure. The longer you leave the shutter open and/or the faster the subject is moving, the more blurring will captured.

Let’s say you are photographing a seagull flying past at the beach. At 1000/sec it will be pretty well frozen. At 250/sec it will be fairly sharp, but the wing tips may be quite blurred. At 30/sec the whole bird will be quite fuzzy. Once you get as slow as half a second, the seagull may be just a vague streak of white across the sky.

Most of the time you want to freeze your picture so that everything is nice and sharp, but this is not always the best approach. For some subjects you may want to deliberately blur the moving subject to create a sense of motion in your photograph.

A popular example is waterfalls. You have certainly seen waterfall photos in which the water appears a soft, silky flow of white, rather than as sharp drops of water. This is simply a photo taken at a very slow shutter speed, perhaps half a second or slower. This is an easy effect to capture, as long as you remember a few other important tips as well.

Any photo shot at very slow speeds must be taken with a tripod. Once your shutter speed falls below about 60/sec, your hand movements (involuntary) will cause the picture to blur and become fuzzy. The movement effect in the water is really only effective if the rest of the picture is sharp.

You also need to be sure that nothing else is moving in the photo that you don’t want blurred. For example, if you shoot your waterfall on a windy day and the trees are blowing, that movement will also appear as a blur in your photograph.

Note: Just a quick tip for photographing waterfalls; not all subjects look best at very slow speeds. I have found that cascading waterfalls that tumble over rocks look great at shutter speeds of about one second. On the other hand, waterfalls that spill over a ledge and fall straight down often look better at faster speeds, perhaps 15/sec or 30/sec. The bottom line is; experiment. Try a few different speeds for each subject and see which one works best.

The last point to make on the subject of movement and shutter speeds it this: your shutter speed can never be seen in isolation from the other manual settings on the camera.

I am frequently asked the following question. “I tried the slow-shutter speed technique with a tripod, but it didn’t work. My photo was all white. What am I doing wrong?”

The mistake here is to forget that when you slow your shutter speed right down, you increase the amount of light in your exposure. If your photo is correctly exposed at, say, 250/sec, it is going to be massively overexposed if you just slow the shutter speed down to one second. If your camera is set to manual, you need to remember to compensate for the increase in light by closing your aperture to a smaller size. In this way you can reduce the light (with the aperture) by the same amount as you increased it (with the shutter speed), allowing you to capture the movement without overexposing the image.

So if your photo is correctly exposed at 30/sec F-4, you can slow your shutter to 1 second, but you also want to close your aperture to F-22 to control the light.

Sound complicated? It can be at first, but with practice you will get the hang of it. This is a skill worth learningFeature Articles, and the reward will be some great photography. Good luck and happy snapping.

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